A little over two years ago, I never braved a swell. So I went to Hawaii, and I did it. I surfed my first wave, and I absolutely fell in love with how riding the waves made me feel so alive. The ocean is so serene yet so dangerous. I love the fear of the unknown, whether you’re going to get up on that swell and ride it out, or whether you’re going to get whipped around and maybe lose balance and fall. Patience. It’s all about patience. That’s one of the virtues I need to get stronger at, which is one of the reasons I love surfing. It is a constant teacher, a constant force to breathe, find balance, discover confidence and go for it.